Once More, with Feeling

When Carlos walked into the stable yard this morning, he gave me a soft but meaningful look and said nothing. It was our last day working...

Mah-té

Published here by The Oldie Green leaves, dried and crushed. A simple cup – a carved-out gourd – cured through years of use. Hot water....

"Re Campero"

This afternoon, Carlos taught me how to tie up a horse’s tail using hair and spit alone. Mateo stood back, hands on hips, and admired the...

Know and Love

It’s a funny feeling; missing things I used to call ‘strange’. I’ve been in Uruguay long enough for the unfamiliar to become familiar,...

The Herd

Horses are sociable creatures; when they’re loose on the Estancia, they always hang out in the same cliques, munching away on their...

There's a Storm a Comin'

Mateo and I spent the afternoon sitting on the fence of the corral, watching Carlito break in a young bay called Rayo, Lightning. As...

Fireflies in my Wine

Uruguay is the kind of place where you’ll find a frog in the shower and a firefly in your wine. It’s a rustic kind of magic that makes...