Airwaves

I was listening to the radio while I drove back from Walmart on Easter Sunday, when an analogue buzz interrupted the music. Three sharp...

Inhabit; Out of Habit

At the age of six, I remember being given a small book to read. I was at school in France at the time, and the book was called something...

Video: Life Goes On

You see, life is going on all around you. Even in isolation, we are never really alone. This is what I saw on a single afternoon, around...

Three Barrels

Gayle’s a friend of Van’s from way back when; another joy who I’m now blessed with the time to meet. She’s a neighbour of sorts, living...

The Heart that Loved Her

When my flight out of Little Rock was cancelled, my world felt tight and small, as if life had pulled the drawstring on its horizons and...

The Cowboy Brand

There’s a small bottle of hand sanitizer in Russell’s car with a white label on it, reading ‘Rugged Cross Cowboy Church, Magnolia,...

The Oldest Four by Four

The door swung open on the rickety white pickup truck as it turned into the ranch. A dark hand reached out and held it shut through the...

Learning The Ropes

My first day of work for Hi Lo Pro Rodeo started at sunrise. Russell and I drove to work in the dark. The tall boles of wet trees began...

"Are you ready?"

Meeting the host of my Airbnb in Oklahoma was a dystopian chess game of staying a metre apart. She took me to buy food, and, as I fumbled...

Border Control

In this strange time of lockdown and upheaval, I’m surprised to find myself in the States at a day’s notice. I had gone from Uruguay to...

Once More, with Feeling

When Carlos walked into the stable yard this morning, he gave me a soft but meaningful look and said nothing. It was our last day working...

Mah-té

Published here by The Oldie Green leaves, dried and crushed. A simple cup – a carved-out gourd – cured through years of use. Hot water....

"Re Campero"

This afternoon, Carlos taught me how to tie up a horse’s tail using hair and spit alone. Mateo stood back, hands on hips, and admired the...

Know and Love

It’s a funny feeling; missing things I used to call ‘strange’. I’ve been in Uruguay long enough for the unfamiliar to become familiar,...

The Herd

Horses are sociable creatures; when they’re loose on the Estancia, they always hang out in the same cliques, munching away on their...

There's a Storm a Comin'

Mateo and I spent the afternoon sitting on the fence of the corral, watching Carlito break in a young bay called Rayo, Lightning. As...

Fireflies in my Wine

Uruguay is the kind of place where you’ll find a frog in the shower and a firefly in your wine. It’s a rustic kind of magic that makes...

This *is* My First Rodeo

Read "Night Riders" for Part One The morning held maté, and dulce de leche on a bread roll for breakfast before we set off on horseback...